Alfa GTV6 Spark Plug Change

 

Alfa GTV6 Lodge HL-USA Spark Plug

An Alfa Romeo GTV6 and maintenance go hand in hand.  If you are handy and like working on fine machinery, maintaining the GTV6 can actually be enjoyable.  Anyway, the maintenance needs to be done, so you might as well rationalize and make the best of it.  Today, we will go over changing the spark plugs on your car. The maintenance schedule calls for the GTV6’s spark plugs to be changed every 30,000 miles.

Alfa GTV6 Spark Plugs

Alfa GTV6 OEM Lodge HLE Spark Plug

 First, a little history. The standard plugs originally fitted to the 1980s Alfa GTV6 engine were LODGE HL-E (Silver) spark plugs. These plugs are of the surface-gapped, four-point, central-electrode type. They require no gap checking or regular maintenance due to their surface-gap design.    

Then, in March 1989, Alfa Romeo published Technical Bulletin 89.01 3/3/1989  announcing a new spark plug for the GTV6 and other models:

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“After extensive testing and evaluation, the factory has developed a new spark plug which has universal application for all four cylinder models from 1982 to date and for all V-6 (2.5 & 3.0) engines from 1981 to date.

The designation for this new spark plug is Lodge HL-USA. superceding the Lodge HL-E and the 2HL-E, which are now no longer supplied. The Lodge HL-USA is packaged under the old HL-E part number of 11911-05106-00.

For 2.0L four cylinder engines from 1972 through 1981 the Lodge HL Part Number 10539-05106-00 is still recommended.

For 1750 four cylinder engines from 1969 through 1971, the Lodge 2HL Part Number 19517-05106-00 is still recommended.

NOTE:

For extended high-performance demands such as road rallies, etc., the colder heat range 2HL (normally used in 1750 four cylinder) may be used in all motors from 1972 to date.” 

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Back when these cars were new, some owners liked Lodge plugs, while others didn’t.  Whether this is because many of the unsatisfied owners had modified their cars and they needed to run a different plug heat range is a good question. 

But all this is sort of a moot point because Lodge spark plugs are nearly impossible to get now.** What’s available are NOS, and there are reports that counterfeits are being sold.  No worries, though, because there are a number of other spark plugs readily available for your GTV6.

Starting around 1984, Alfa Romeo started recommending an alternative plug for the GTV6 if you couldn’t find Lodge plugs - the Champion RN11YC.  Curiously, Champion has succeeded the application to RN9YC.  

Here are the most popular plugs for the GTV6:

Manufacturer -Stock number / Plug Number -Pre-Set Gap

• Champion 415-1 / RN9YC Copper Plus Gap -.032
• Champion 320 / RN11YC Copper Plus (OBSOLETE- hotter than the RN9YC) -.035
• NGK 7131 / BPR6ES Nickel Spark Plug -.035
• NGK 5534 / BPR7ES Nickel Spark Plug (Cooler Plug - Track Use)* -.031
• NGK 6637 / BPR6EIX Iridium IX Spark Plug -.032
• NGK 7084 / BPR6EGP G-Power Platinum Spark Plug -.040
• NGK 6427 / BPR6EY V-Power Spark Plug -.032
• Bosch 7900 / WR7DC Copper Super Spark Plug - .031" (0.8mm)
• Bosch 6737 / WR7DPP30W  Platinum Spark Plug  -.035" (0.9mm) Do Not Adjust

*Note:

If you run your car hard (track use/high rpms), Alfa recommends running a colder heat range. On an NGK plug, that means going UP a heat range (e.g., from a 6 to a 7).  This is in contrast to Champion spark plugs, where you have to go down a number.

Probably the most popular plug people in the GTV6 community run is the NGK Nickel-Copper plug, BPR6ES.  If you track your car, the BPR7ES is a cooler heat range.  Another popular plug is the NGK BPR6EIX Iridium IX plug.  You can use the cooler BPR7EIX plugs for high-performance driving.

Alfa GTV6 Spark Plug Gap

NGK BPR6ES spark Plug used for the Alfa GTV6.  When you check the gap, a wire gauge is recommended for the most accurate check. When opening the gap, do not use one of those cheap ramp gauges that look like a coin to pry against the center electrode. 

• The Alfa GTV6 spark plug gap setting is 028”-.031” (.7 - .8mm)

You should always check your spark plug gaps. Why? Because they are typically gapped at the most common settings. Plus, they can get knocked or dropped during shipping or before you get them. As you can see above, some of the pre-set gaps are not in spec.

The factory gap setting range is between .028” and .031”.  Setting the gap to the smaller side can be easier on the ignition system and is less likely to misfire, but the flip side is that you can get a weaker spark and incomplete ignition.   Setting the gap towards the wider range can give a wider, hotter spark, improving throttle response and idle quality, but can be harder on your ignition system, and there’s a greater risk of misfire

Looking further into gap settings:

The factory calls for the Champion RN11YC plugs to be gapped at .028-.031”.  The RN11YC / 320 plugs are no longer listed on the US Champion site and look to be discontinued in the US.   You can find RN11YC4, stock number 322, which is a wide gap plug factory set at .041”.  Adjusting this wide gap plug down to .028-.031” is too much (.010”).  According to NGK, you shouldn’t adjust a plug gap by more than .08”. This may be one of the reasons why Champion lists the RN9YC plugs, which are pre-set to .032”. 

For NGK plugs listed above, NGK lists .025, and it seems the Alfa community is torn between running that gap or a .030” gap.  Keep in mind that copper plugs are more prone to gap erosion than platinum or iridium plugs.  A spark plug gapped on the smaller side is more likely to remain within specifications over its 30K life.  If you run the NGKs at .025”, you can try bumping them up to .030” and see if the idle gets smoother and / or throttle response is better. 

The Bosch Copper Super Plugs come pre-gapped at .031”.  You could run that, but keep in mind you might not make it to 30K miles and still be within specifications. 

Alfa GTV6 Spark Plug Torque Spec

•  18–22 ft-lbs (25–30 Nm)

Alfa GTV6 Spark Plug Tools

Changing the Alfa GTV6 spark plugs is generally an easy job; however, the plug for cylinder 6 requires a little ingenuity to reach.    Another issue you may come across is the spark plug well is narrow, so you need to use a thin-wall 13/16” spark plug socket.  The ones I’ve used measure out at 27.60 mm in diameter.  Measure yours ahead of time so you aren’t caught off guard and have to run around looking for a socket that fits. 

Look for a thin-wall 13/16" spark plug socket.  I use this S-K # 4426 3/8 spark plug socket. But I also have a SP 13/16 (21mm) spark plug socket.  

I suggest having an assortment of extensions available. I used a couple of 3-inch extensions. One of them was a wobble extension. But that’s not necessary.

You may be lucky and have the factory spark plug tool Alfa Romeo supplied in the factory tool kit provided with the car.  These show up on eBay from time to time, so keep an eye out if you want one.

Changing the Alfa GTV6 Spark Plugs

To get to GTV6’s right engine bank plugs, remove the air intake boot.  It is easier to remove the boot by unfastening the five clips on the air cleaner housing top and moving it out of the way. Treat the boot, and frankly, everything you touch with care, as you are dealing with 40-year-old parts that are difficult to find and many of which are NLA - No Longer Available.

Next, carefully remove the spark plug wires.  Be careful not knock around the spark plug wire ends as they are ceramic and delicate, and a good set of ignition wires is expensive.  The ends are screwed on so if they are loose, they can be tightened.   Slide the rubber cap part up the wire and carefully screw in the spark plug end. You can put a dab of dielectric grease on the wire to help the rubber boot slide more easily. While you are at it, clean the wires of any grease and dirt.  Dirty wires attract moisture, which can lead to arcing and misfires. 

Inspect your spark plug wells for oil and dirt.  You don’t want hard bits of debris to get into the cylinder when you remove the spark plug. This may be the hardest part of the job, and it can be tedious.  Spray some brake cleaner into the well and use a shop rag to soak up the dirt and any oil.  Use a long, pointed pick or a very narrow screwdriver to clean around the spark plug seat.  Blowing out the plug well with air from an air compressor is recommended.  If you do have oil in the spark plug wells, you likely need to replace the spark plug well seals and cam cover gasket.

Now it’s time to remove your plugs.  Make sure you push the socket all the way down on the plug and loosen the spark plug. A spray of PB Blaster around the plug seat is not a bad idea, and makes removing the plugs easier.  The plugs should unscrew easily.  

The thing to look out for is if the plug is tight or gets tighter while you unscrew it, you want to stop, spray some penetrating lube on the plug, and screw the plug back in a couple of turns.  This will help clean the threads off. Spraying the plug with penetrating lube before screwing in those few turns will pull some lube onto the threads.  After you’ve screwed the plug in a few turns, continue to unscrew the plug, going further than before. It should be easier now.  Anytime the plug gets tight, repeat the screw-in/unscrew procedure.  This will keep you from damaging the threads.   

How To Get To GTV6 Cylinder Six Plug

Just when you thought, “man, this is easy," something has to slow you down.  In this case, it’s the number six spark plug, and that something is the brake booster directly over the plug well.  Maybe because the other plugs are easy to reach, but this one requires some thinking to attack and many people get frustrated getting to this plug. 

No worries, that’s when having a couple of small extensions comes in handy.  If you come at the spark plug from the back of the engine, you can sneak the spark plug socket and extensions into the plug well and then snap a ratchet on and you’ll be in business.  

And, in spite of what I’ve heard on the internet about people complaining the factory spark plug tool doesn’t work, if you do the same thing - come from the back of the engine-  you can pretty easily get to the plug.  Lesson - don’t believe all the negative stuff about the GTV6 you read on the internet.

Should I Put Antiseize on the Spark Plugs?

This is a personal decision.  Alfa Romeo recommends applying MolyKote, a molybdenum disulfide oil lubricant, on the spark plug threads.  Many old-school Alfa mechanics and owners put antiseize on threads and have done so without issue for years.  This is in contrast to some plug companies that do not recommend using antiseize products.

The problem is that steel spark plugs in an aluminum cylinder head are susceptible to galvanic corrosion, which can cause the plug to weld itself to the head.  Seized spark plugs in aluminum heads is a common issue, and that is a straight-up nightmare you do not want to experience. On the other hand, using antiseize on the threads can give you a false torque reading when tightening and also interfere with the heat transfer of the spark plug to the cylinder head. 

 So it’s up to you.  Keep in mind, you may take a few years to accumulate 30,000 miles on your car, so these plugs can sit for a while. You’ll never know if you’re going to have a problem with a plug seizing into the cylinder head until you do, and then it’s too late.  A compromise is to not slather the plug threads with antiseize - just a dab on a couple of threads is fine.  If you are using a torque wrench to install the plugs, manufacturers recommend reducing the tightening torque by 30%.  

Also, I recommend using a 3/8" torque wrench rather than a 1/2" one.  The smaller wrench will give you a better feel when you are tightening low-torque fasteners.  Also,  torque wrenches are less accurate at the extreme bottom of their range, so you don't want to use a big 1/2" wrench meant to tighten large fasteners on something easy to strip, like spark plug threads in an aluminum head.  The standard rule of thumb is to use a torque wrench from 20 to 80-90% of its maximum torque, for best accuracy.

If you don’t use a torque wrench, tighten the plug until it seats, then turn it another half a turn.  I’ll use a 3/8 ratchet and, holding it from about the center, twist it with one hand. You can get a good feel for when the plug is tightened properly. 

** Lodge spark plugs may be making a comeback.  The Lodge Company website is talking about returning to spark plug production. Lodge was an English spark plug company founded in 1904 that produced cutting-edge designs. In 1984, Alfa Romeo's SPICA division took over spark plug production. ARS Brand Management acquired the brand in 2022. I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for the OEM style HL-E and HL-USA to be remade, though.  If you desperately want these plugs, check out vintage Alfa parts vendors or other well-known vendors you can trust. They'll likely have genuine Lodge plugs. 

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Read More Articles About The Alfa GTV6 Ignition System

Other Alfa GTV6 Maintenance Articles

Disclaimer: 

This is how I changed the spark plugs on my Alfa GTV6, which is provided for informational and entertainment purposes. If you have any doubts about your ability to perform this work or have any issues, I recommend having it done by a professional. I am not responsible for any issues arising from your reading this post. Use at your own risk.

Alfa GTV6 Idle Speed O-ring

 

The Alfa Romeo GTV6 is filled with unusual and interesting engineering features and solutions. One of the unique features is this simple O-ring. This humble O-ring plays a big part in how your car runs because it regulates the amount of air that bypasses the throttle valve, setting the idle speed on your GTV6. If it is worn out, it will make for the most frustrating driving experience. If you are unfamiliar with the GTV6 Idle Speed O-ring, stick around —we'll tell you everything you need to know.

The Alfa GTV6 uses the above fittings to control your idle speed (minus the extra O-ring shown).  The various fittings are put together and screwed into the side of the throttle body. Over the years, the rubber O-ring can harden and become brittle, and when that happens, your car can develop idle issues. This tiny O-ring is often overlooked, and if you or your mechanic don't know about it, you can end up chasing all sorts of false solutions trying to fix your problem. 

If you have an idle issue or can't adjust your idle and don't have a vacuum leak, look into replacing this O-ring. The good news is the o-ring is inexpensive and can usually be had at your favorite Alfa Romeo vendor. It is also easy to change. 

  

Alfa Romeo GTV6 Idle O-Ring part number 60523368 size:

• 14 mm outer diameter 
• 7 mm inside diameter 
• 3.5 mm thickness

When you inspect your Idle O-ring, it should be soft, flexible, not oil-soaked, and not cracked. If it can't pass the inspection, you need to replace it. If you can't find a replacement O-ring, you can use the above dimensions to source one in an emergency.  Because of the heat and fumes in the intake tract, look for an O-ring made from a material like Viton rather than the more common Nitrile. 

This is the GTV6 idle bypass adjuster assembly.

The O-ring goes in first. Push it all the way into the hole. The O-ring bottoms out against a tapered flare shape.

The idle bypass assembly is then inserted into the hole in the throttle body. For clarity, I placed the O-ring at the entrance so you can see where it goes. Make sure you push the O-ring in first, as was mentioned above.

A close-up shot of the idle bypass assembly.  You should use a new copper washer at some point, but a little grease on the threads and washer will help it seal.

It is called an idle bypass because idle air bypasses the throttle valve.  The throttle valve on a GTV6 is nearly fully closed at idle. Idle speed is controlled by the amount of air passing through the above hose and bypass assembly. 

This air is drawn from the intake boot after passing through the airflow meter. This ensures the change in engine air intake, as controlled by the idle bypass screw, is sensed by the airflow sensor, which also proportionally adjusts the injected fuel rate. 

Note: the above image is from an early (1981-1983) North American spec GTV6.  Later GTV6 models with the EZ-L Ignition System (1984 and up, North American GTV6) and cars sold in other markets have their idle speed adjuster mounted on the side of the plenum assembly, as shown below.

How to Adjust the Alfa GTV6 Idle Speed

NOTE: To adjust the idle on a GTV6, DO NOT touch the throttle valve stop screw.  Use the idle bypass adjuster ring (red arrow).  The engine must be at operating temperature with no accessories engaged and the gearbox in neutral.

1. First, loosen the idle speed bypass adjuster lock nut. This is the nut to the right of the adjuster ring in the image above. You should hold the adjuster ring with another wrench while loosening the locknut.
2. Turn the idle speed bypass adjuster ring in or out until you have the correct idle speed. You will feel the rubber squish as you tighten the adjuster. When you have the idle speed set, tighten the lock nut while holding the adjuster ring to keep it from moving.  GTV6 idle speeds are listed below for your convenience.

1981-1983 Alfa GTV6 Idle Speed North American Specs

• 800-1000 rpm

1984-1986 Alfa GTV6 Idle Speed North American Specs

• 950 +/- 50 rpm up to 4,000 ft. elevations
• Above 4,000 ft, 800-900 rpm acceptable

How the Alfa GTV6 Idle Speed O-ring Works

This is the view of the GTV6 O-ring looking through the bypass adjuster. Notice the size of the opening through which the intake air flows.

 

A close-up of the idle O-ring opening at its maximum size. The more air flowing through this opening, the faster the car will idle. Remember, the airflow sensor meters the air, ensuring the correct air/fuel ratio. Idle-speed adjustments do not affect CO measurements.

 

Note the size of the O-ring opening when the adjuster is tightened down. Tightening the adjuster squishes the rubber O-ring and reduces the opening size, and decreases the idle speed.  This is why the O-ring needs to be soft and flexible.  Old school engineering. Simple and effective.

So the next time you place an order for Alfa parts, have them throw in a replacement O-ring.  And when it's tune-up time, replace it.  Having one handy can save you a hassle and keep your car singing its happy tune.

Smooth sailing!

Alfa GTV6 Rear Coolant Hose

 

There’s nothing like the mesmerizing sound of an Alfa Romeo GTV6 on the open road. When you’re behind the wheel, you never want to stop—especially for that dreaded "B" word: Breakdown! I’ve owned my GTV6 for 39 years, and it has been impressively reliable. 

Still, I've had a couple of close calls that almost left me stranded. One was an alternator failure. Fortunately, I made it to a friend's house and avoided being stuck. The first incident, though, was the rear coolant hose coming out of the left cylinder head, leading to the "T" fitting and feeding the heater core.  This burst, spewing coolant and a huge cloud of steam and ended an enjoyable drive. Luckily, I was able to splice the hose together and make it home, avoiding a huge tow bill or overheating and damaging my engine.

My advice to anyone who owns a GTV6 is to inspect and replace this hose before it leaves you stranded.

Alfa Romeo GTV6 Rear Coolant Hose

Can you see the rear coolant hose? In the picture, it is the hose located just to the right of the fuel inlet hose.  This rear coolant hose feeds the heater core and comes out of the left cylinder head and is buried in the valley between the two heads.  As you see, this hose is obscured by the intake plenum, the fuel inlet hose, and wires.

This hose is buried behind the engine and pressed against the firewall. It’s easily overlooked when inspecting your engine. As a result, it often becomes old, neglected, and frequently soaked in oil—making it prone to failure, possibly on your next drive.  

This hose is difficult to reach with the intake plenum installed; removing it may help. Once the plenum is off, you might as well inspect your intake pipe couplings. Note: A lot of coolant will leak out when removing this hose, so have plenty of rags around.  Ideally, you should drain a good portion of your anti-freeze out before removing this hose.  Don't forget to bleed your cooling system. The link at the end of this post on replacing the thermostat has tips on bleeding your cooling system.

The Alfa part number for this hose is 60701345. It’s a hard-to-find part, so check your preferred Alfa vendor, eBay, or bring the hose to match at a local parts store. The GTV6 alloy engine does not like overheating, so while you're at it, consider replacing all your hoses. The worst things you can do to a Busso engine are to not change the timing belt, run low on oil, or overheat it.

Alfa Romeo GTV6 Coolant Hose T Fitting

Inspect your "T" fitting. Mine had some corrosion.

So I soaked it in Evaporust.

Rust removed and ready for paint.

If you can't salvage your "T" fitting, the part number is 60533669.  Note that these fittings are subject to deterioration, and because they have two different hose sizes, they are not easy to find locally.  So it is a good idea to get one and have it in your spare parts stash before you need it.

Don’t forget the two thermostat bypass hoses up front behind the thermostat housing. These are also out of sight and frequently neglected. Read more about them here:

Alfa Romeo GTV6 Thermostat Replacement

Smooth sailing and happy motoring!

Disclaimer: 

This post is provided for informational and entertainment purposes. If you have any doubts about your ability to perform this work or have any issues, I recommend having it done by a professional. I am not responsible for any issues arising from your reading this post. Use at your own risk.

Alfa GTV6 Recommended Lubricants Guide

 

Alfa Romeo GTV6 recommended lubrication decal part number 116.00.80.400.00 - 10050.

The Alfa Romeo GTV6 came with a recommended lubricants guide decal stuck under the hood to the top of the windshield washer reservoir.  Many of these decals are no longer readable. so I've posted one for your reference.  Many, if not most of these fluids are no longer available, so I've posted the generic specifications for your convenience.  The Alfa Romeo part number for this decal is 116.00.80.400.00 -  10050.

If you do find any vintage fluids, be careful using them. Fluids and lubricants do go bad after a while. Oils that are five years old or older are generally considered past their use by date. They would have to be examined for separation and other deteriorations before using and it is likely not worth the bother.

ALFA GTV6 ENGINE OIL*

• AGIP SINT 2000 SAE 10W 50
• IP SUPER MOTOR OIL 10 W/50
• SHELL SUPER PLUS 15W/50

*SE Oil Specification

Note: Many modern motor oils, designated for fuel economy and emissions standards, do not contain enough zinc (ZDDP, or zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) to adequately protect a flat-tappet engine like used in the GTV6.  You should look for oils specifically designed for flat-tappet engines.  Using a ZDDP additive may be an option, but it is possible to have too much ZDDP.  Do your research carefully.

ALFA GTV6 ENGINE OIL CAPACITY (Sump and Filter)

• Full - 7.1 qts**  
• Danger Level -  4.75 qts

** Quantity needed for a regular oil change.  Total amount of oil in oil circuit (pan, filter and passages) - 7.65 qts

Original Alfa Romeo GTV6 North American Underhood Lubrication Decal.  The Shell Super Plus oil listed was an add on sticker 

ALFA GTV6 GEARBOX and DIFFERENTIAL*

• AGIP F 1 ROTRA MP SAE 80W90
• IP PONTIAX HD SAE 80W90
• SHELL SPIRAX 80W/90 HD

*SAE 80 W/90 API GL-5 specification

ALFA GTV6 GEARBOX OIL CAPACITY

•  3 qts

ALFA GTV6 FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS*

• AGIP F1GREASE 33FD
• IP AUTOGREASE FD

*SAE NLGI 2/3 specification

ALFA GTV6 SPICA STEERING RACK*

• AGIP F1 ROTRA MP SAE 80W90
• IP PONTIAX HD SAE 80W90
• SHELL SPIRAX 80W/90 HD

*SAE 80W90 API GL-5  specification

ALFA GTV6 ZF STEERING RACK*

• ALFA ROMEO NORMALE 3671 69328

*Note: Right Hand Drive

ALFA GTV6 BRAKE FLUID*

• ALFA ROMEO NORMALE 3681-69905
• AGIP BRAKE FLUID SUPER HD
• ATE Blue S

*Dot 3 specification

ALFA GTV6 BRAKE FLUID CAPACITY

• Sufficient Quantity (yes, that is the Alfa spec listed in the manual. LOL)

ALFA GTV6 RADIATOR AND EXPANSION TANK*

• ALFA ROMEO NORMALE 3681 69958 COOLANT

*conventional antifreeze

ALFA GTV6 COOLING SYSTEM CAPACITY

•  3.2 gallons

Alfa Romeo GTV6 Underhood lubrication Sticker, Alfa Romeo GTV6 Recommended Fluids

Alfa Romeo GTV6 Fluid Capacities from Owner and Workshop Manuals.

Alfa GTV6 Fuel Tank Strainer Servicing

The Alfa Romeo GTV6 fuel pump is fed with gasoline that passes through a fuel strainer at the bottom of the fuel tank. It can be unscrewed from the tank with a large 32mm socket after you remove the banjo fitting for the hose on the bottom. The banjo fitting bolt is 13mm. When you remove the banjo bolt, you should hold the base of the filter with a 32mm open wrench. 

The base of the filter is a soft metal and has likely been screwed into the tank for decades. Make sure you clean and around the threads and use a good penetrating fluid to give yourself every chance of getting this filter to unscrew. Hopefully, yours will come free. 

Before you do all this, you must figure out how to drain the fuel from the tank. Don't cut the feed hose unless you have a replacement, as it is not the easiest to find. The size of this hose was originally 12 mm and could have been replaced with the easier-to-find 1/2 inch size. Ensure you get a fuel hose and not the more common heater hose. The hose should also be ethanol-compatible if that's what is used in our area.

Alfa Romeo GTV6 Fuel Tank Strainer Parts

 

 Alfa Romeo GTV6 Fuel Tank Strainer Part Numbers

• Fuel Filter Strainer Alfa part number: 0060523420 / old Alfa part number: 11911320260200
• Oring Alfa part number:  0010298460
• Washer Alfa part number: 0060523440 

Alfa Romeo GTV6 Fuel Tank Strainer and sealing washer and Oring.  The GTV6 fuel tank strainer has long been discontinued. The Alfa Romeo part number for this was 0060523420. The filter was made by FISPA*, and the part number is 3160.02.  

Hopefully, yours is still serviceable, but if not, the only way I have seen to get one is to scour eBay or other "for sale" sites. 

Alfa Romeo GTV6 Fuel Strainer Specs

The outside thread size of the Alfa GTV6 Fuel Tank Strainer is 40x1.5mm.  The inner thread where the banjo bolt is screwed into is 22mm.

Other car companies like Porsche and Mercedes-Benz use similar in-tank fuel strainers. However, I have not found a substitute filter with the same thread size.

Alfa 6 Fuel Tank Strainer

The Alfa Romeo Alfa6 sedan uses a similar 40mm outside thread filter. However, the inner thread size is only 18mm, not the larger 22mm used on the GTV6.  Using that filter will limit fuel flow going to your fuel pump.

The Alfa Romeo Alfa 6 Fuel Filter part number that is not recommended is FISPA 316003 or Alfa Romeo part number 119203202600.  This old part number was superseded by the new Alfa Romeo part number  60737161.

Alfa Romeo GTV6 Fuel Tank Strainer Sealing Washer

The Alfa Romeo GTV6 Fuel Strainer sealing washer is a copper washer with an inner diameter of 41.95mm.  The outer diameter measures 48.77mm. The thickness of the used washer was 1.51mm.  Unsurprising, this M42 washer is not the easiest thing to find. 

After much searching, The closest I found was this 42mm inner and 49mm outer, 2mm thick, DIN 7603 Copper Sealing Washer at the Misumi USA. Misumi is the world's largest supplier of fixed and configurable components for the manufacturing industry.

Part Number: 7603-CU-42-49-A

DIN 7603 Sealing Washers, Copper.

Alfa GTV6 Fuel Strainer Washer Outside Diameter is 48.77mm

The Alfa GTV6 fuel strainer washer thickness measured 1.51mm.

Alfa Romeo GTV6 Fuel Tanks Strainer Oring

A replacement for the Alfa Romeo GTV6 fuel tank strainer Oring is no longer available. And even if you did find one, it may not be ethanol-fuel compatible. One of the more significant hurdles is finding one that is compatible, and measuring a used shriveled-up Oring is difficult.   After much research,  I decided on Buna-N 70 Duro Orings, which are ethanol-fuel-rated.

I'll confess that I ordered dozens of Orings trying to find a size that would fit like the original. These Orings were often only available in bulk, and I spent over $100 never to come up with a definitive size. 

I  settled for a 34 x2.5 mm Oring that seems to fit well. This is a decision you'll have to make for yourself. To ensure no leaks, I used an ethanol-fuel-safe thread sealant.   This would normally not be necessary if all these parts were available from Alfa. Again, it is up to you.

The Oring Store 

Fuel Thread Sealant For Ethanol Applications

Because I had a hard time finding the exact size of the ring for the fuel strainer and to make sure I didn't have an issue, I used this thread sealant made specifically for sealing gas fittings for ethanol applications. This sealant is also compatible with Buna-N Nitrile O-Rings (NBR) .  I would not use this on the banjo fittings.  The copper washers will be fine.   

Gasoila PTFE Thread Sealant for Ethanol E10 & E85 Applications**

Alfa Romeo GTV6 Fuel Tanks Banjo Fittings

 

The Alfa GTV6 uses banjo fittings to connect the fuel hoses to the fuel tank.  The larger banjo fitting is the fuel feed from the fuel strainer.  The smaller fitting is for the fuel return hose coming from the fuel pressure regulator on the engine.  You need to change the sealing washers whenever you remove these fittings.  Here are the sizes for your convenience.

Alfa Romeo GTV6 Fuel Feed Banjo Fitting Sealing Washer Size

For the GTV6 fuel feed banjo fittings you will need to order two 20mm inside x 26mm outside diameter, 1.5mm thick washers.

26mm outside diameter,

The washer is 1.5mm thick.

Alfa Romeo GTV6 Fuel Return Banjo Fitting Sealing Washer Size

The smaller fuel return banjo fittings will take two 12mm inside x18mm outside diameter, 1.5mm thickness washers.

The Alfa GTV6 fuel return banjo fitting sealing washer.

The return banjo fitting washer is 1.5mm thick.

I picked up this set of copper sealing washers from Amazon that had all the sizes I needed for the banjo fittings.

180Piece Copper Sealing Washers Box M5 M6 M8 M10 M12 M14 M16 M20**

This is how I serviced my fuel pump strainer on my GTV6.  The information is provided for entertainment and informative purposes. Only you can decide if you feel comfortable doing this kind of work. Use the information at your own risk.  If you have any doubts about your ability to perform this work or any issues, I recommend having it done by a professional. I am not responsible for any issues arising from your reading this post. Good luck with your project!

Read about replacing the Alfa GTV6 Fuel Pump Hoses

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**NOTE: I spend hours researching to find products that I can use for my car.  To save you time and the aggravation of finding something that works for your car, I've posted links to the products I've used. 

Do your own due diligence when making purchases.

*Fabbrica Italiana Specialità Parti Auto (FISPA) or Italian Specialty Auto Parts Factory was founded in 1925 and is supplier of OEM and aftermarket car parts.

Alfa GTV6 Fuel Tank Strainer Size, Alfa GTV6 Fuel Tank Fittings, Alfa GTV6 Fuel Strainer Washer